Farm

Brooding Problems When Raising Quail

Chick's dying during the Brooding Process of Raising Quail is not necessarily your fault or caused by you doing anything wrong. If the eggs that the chicks came from were purchased quail eggs. There could have been a problem with the breeder's that produced these eggs.

The Breeder Quail may not be sick themselves but are carrying a disease. If they are carrying a disease this could be passed along to the chicks. It could cause them either not to hatch at all, or have very short lives. There is absolutely nothing you can do about this.

Another problem the Breeder Quail could have is not receiving the proper nutrition. This also will cause problems with the chicks. This is why your breeder's should be put on a breeder quail diet starting at least several weeks before breeding season. They should be kept on this diet through out the quail breeding season.

Then there are problems that you may be able to prevent. The quail chicks also need to be properly fed. I personally like to use a medicated quail starter food. This will help in preventing Coccidiosis, this disease will usually attack your chicks at the age of 2 weeks to 6 weeks of age. The medicated food is made to help prevent this.

Coccidiosis is found more in chicks being brooded on the ground or litter. You can help prevent this disease by maintaining a clean pen. Usually the cause of this disease is from the chicks eating droppings off of the floor. As you well know that is about all they do, so you have to do the best you can to keep their area clean.

Picking is always a potential problem when raising quail. During the brooding stage chicks are very prone to picking, toes, nose, back and tail feathers. This picking can and will result in death, if not controlled.

There are various solutions to this problem. One solution is using colored lights, blue is highly suggested although red will also work. The general thought on this, is just give them enough light to find their food and water. Another possible solution is to give them something to pick on other than each other. You could put in a small, leafy tightly bale of hay, this will sometimes help. If none of these solve this problem there is always the last resort of beak trimming.

I have been raising quail for 22 years and have written an ebook on the subject. "The Beginner's Guide to Raising Quail." http://www.howtoraisequail.com

Alpaca Farms

With strict regulations in place, countries such as Chile, Bolivia and Peru, don't allow significant exportation of their "national treasure" to foreign countries. However, alpacas continue to be growing business. Worldwide demand is high for alpaca fiber in the arenas of fashion and textile manufacturing.

Alpacas are slow to mature and their fiber is of the highest quality. The demand for alpaca products is greater than the alpaca farmers can supply. This means that prices for not only alpaca products, but the price of alpacas themselves will continue to remain very high. Alpaca farms can be a great investment for anyone who loves animals and has some land where they can pasture these gentle creatures.

When you decide to invest your future in an alpaca farm, you will receive tax discounts available to individuals who breed alpacas. There are more than 25 ways in which you can enjoy tax advantages if you decide to invest in alpacas. You may be eligible for tax write offs regarding the value of your outbuildings that house the alpacas, any machinery or equipment that may be involved in alpaca farming, breeding alpaca stock and items whose useful life exceeds one year. You can also enjoy a full write off on quite a few of your operating expenses such as medical costs, feed and the electricity for buildings housing your alpacas.

You need to be aware of the deferral of capital gains through the use of the compounding plan that protects your profits until you actually sell the alpaca. For information regarding this, you will need to speak to a trained accountant. Before you begin any business venture, especially one as unique as alpaca farming, it's recommended to talk with a professional.

When you compare the cost of keeping other types of livestock, you will find that alpacas are fairly inexpensive to maintain. Your initial investment in the purchase of the alpacas can be devalued over a span of five years. These robust little animals coexist easily with nature. All you need to provide them is fresh water, some room to roam with their fellow alpacas, a bit of hay and grain, fencing to ensure their safety, shelter from the elements and all the love you have to spare.

Many publications are available for you to learn more about the fascinating world of alpaca farming. You can find alpaca clubs where other aficionados will be more than happy to share the joys of owning an alpaca farm. You can find flexible ownership plans and all the advice and strategies you need to start your own alpaca farm.

Though precise tax rules will vary according to the kind of plan you decide to follow, the return on your investment is fairly high. Many sites on the internet offer detailed information devoted to the care and husbandry of alpacas. When you invest in an alpaca farm, you will find that these sweet animals can give you more than you ever hoped to receive, not only financially, but personally as well.

To find out everything you need to know about Alpaca Farms, sign up for my free course on Alpaca Farms, a Business Course.

Alpaca Farming

Many people are surprised to learn that the start up costs for alpaca farming are far less than many other franchises or home business ventures they may have explored in the past. In fact, you can begin a fully functioning alpaca farm with a beginning price tag of just $40,000. This initial investment will include a couple of alpacas of breeding age and the network you require to maintain your new acquisitions. Of course, this amount doesn't include the cost of the land where you will house the animals.

The average alpaca farmer who has operated a business for a minimum of four years or more, usually reports a return on investment that can range anywhere from 25% to an impressive 60%. There are many factors that can affect this figure. However, when you invest in alpaca farming, you are investing in a venture that has an established track record for high profits. This industry is also continuing to grow and will afford you larger profits in years to come.

The demand for the fiber from alpacas is growing more and more each day. When you shear your alpacas yearly, you can choose to sell it yourself or partner with an alpaca fiber co-op. When you choose a co-op as an outlet for your fiber, you will be assured of a simple channel that guarantees the sale of your fiber. These organizations are also dedicated to raising awareness of these creatures and the high demand for their fiber in the world of fashion.

Your alpacas are considered to be your inventory. However, unlike other types of business inventories, you alpacas are completely insurable. The low cost of premiums for insurance on your alpacas protect you from the loss of any animal. The insurance system work very much in the same way that the FDIC protects your savings when you place your hard earned money in a bank. Another advantage is that you can expect higher returns when you invest in alpacas.

Your alpaca should give you 13 to 17 years of a fully productive life. These animals can live to the ripe old age of 25, with the age of 30 not uncommon. If you take this fact into consideration when you practice breeding these animals, they end up becoming a productive source of income for more than half of their entire life. The female begins her breeding future at approximately 3 years old and continues breeding successfully until she is approximately 17. This gives you many years of a herd producing female. When combined with the ability to keep up to 10 alpacas on just one acre of land, you may quickly find yourself looking for more land to raise even more alpacas.

Alpaca farming can be a boon not only to your financial future, but your family life as well. Children can become as involved as you want when you decide that owning an alpaca farm is the right enterprise for you. You can invest in alpaca farming as a retirement alternative that will keep the money rolling in and the love between you and your alpacas flowing!

To find out everything you need to know about Alpaca Farming for free, visit our free Alpaca Farming Business Course.

Pygmy Goat Personality Profiles

Like most pygmy goat owners (or so I imagine, I hope I'm not the only person who does what I'm about to describe) I spend a few hours every week relaxing outside with our four pygmy goats (Charlie, Ella, Jack and Sally), scratching their backs when they're too lazy to bite at the irritant themselves, and quietly observing their bucolic existence.

I wonder what their pygmy brains are thinking as they wander around the pasture and walk along the pond. They seem quite intelligent, but so economical in their emotional expression that it's hard to draw clear conclusions.

I've paid some attention to four areas of pygmy behavior: language, battling, affection, and differentiation. These are not scientific analyses by any means, they are simply observations. Eventually, if generalized theories of pygmy behavior can be developed, it might be worthwhile to gather more concrete data in addition to the current set of notes. Nonetheless, as a casual prolegomena to a more rigorous codification of pygmy behaviors this may serve as a useful starting point for additional observation.

Their role in life as prey rather than predators seems to inform much of their behavior. As more than one veterinarian has told me, "A pygmy goat that acts sick is on death's door because they naturally hide any weakness." The weakest pygmies are always the one's that the predators attack first. Or, as Billy Crystal put it, "It's better to look good than to feel good."

On Language

So far I've found at least five distinct sounds. In general pygmy goats are pretty quiet, they make a little more noise than a cat and a lot less noise than a dog.

First, there is a separation call that they use whenever one goat wanders away from the herd. If two wander away then everyone wanders after and the herd coalesces before a warning call is needed.

Second, there is a recognition call generally associated with positive expectations. If I walk out of the house with a plastic bucket in my hand they know this usually means food and start calling out as they run to their shed. They'll also make this call if we're going for a walk, as they love to wander around the property.

Third, is a disapproving, somewhat insistent, call most often heard when their food is a little late. They know I don't get up on time every morning so it's muted at breakfast. But if their dinner isn't on the floor by 6 pm, they start lining up outside the sliding glass doors on the porch and interrupt the evening news with their complaining.

Fourth, there is a little "meep, meep, meep" call they make deep in their throats when they're readying themselves for battle. Supposedly, to a pygmy, this is deeply threatening and signals the incipient launch of a serious clobbering, but to everyone else it sounds ridiculous.

Fifth, and saddest, there is a very loud, higher pitched, continuous call which either means "I am hurt" or "I think I am hurt." Mostly we observe the "I think I am hurt" variant at toenail clipping time. Sally, in particular, kicks her legs in all directions and screams like a little baby as soon as the orange clipper is unsheathed. I'm the only one that has ever been hurt by this ritual as she once kicked just as I was turning the clipper, jamming the two razor tips into the palm of my hand. Sally was then able to observe my high pitched, continuous, cursing behavior.

Battling: Dominance Ritual or Good Clean Fun

Pygmy behaviorists associate battling with maintenance of the herd order. I'm sure there is an element of this, but they seem to really enjoy smashing foreheads. There is no obvious competition between Sally and Ella, but they'll stand on the porch, rear up on their back legs and just bash each other for 10 or 15 minutes; tails wagging the whole time. Their fur stands straight up on their backs, a traditional sign of anger, while they are battling, but it seems to be puffery more than enmity. The battle halts every 30 seconds or so if someone needs to bite an itchy foot or grab a slurp of water.

Social Affection and Herd Bonding

The pygmy's generous use of social affection to support bonding within the herd is one of the most endearing aspects of their behavior. As many people have noted, you can tell if a pygmy goat really likes you because they will stand on your foot when you approach them--or perhaps the grass is wet--they hate wet grass. They regularly engage in this behavior with each other. They chew on each other's ears, horns and collars, lay on each other when sunning, and rest their legs on each other's backs when they're gnawing at some spot on their paw. There is a lot of touching going on in pygmy land, but asexual in the case of our herd. The boys are all weathered so none of this is prelude to a dream.

Personality Differentiation

We only have four pygmy goats, so this is clearly anecdotal not dispositive, but I believe we can ignore any fear of specious anthropomorphism and conclude that these pygmies have personalities that are wildly differentiated and wildly entertaining.

Clearly Ella dominates the herd as the explorer, new things are her thing. Charlie dominates the herd with size and muscle. He eats first, eats the most, wakes the other's up when they're napping and generally acts like an ornery big brother. Given this, he still lets Ella lead when something new is afoot. Jack supports the herd by demurring to the others and just being a sweetheart. Jack is stalwart and undemanding, taking what life brings him. Sally is very independent, wanders off from the herd regularly, picks and chooses when to interact with the humans and exhibits a feisty streak that belies her small size.

One could go on, but clearly there is not one genetic mold stamping out identical neural pathways. These four, at least, exhibit a clear differentiation of personality that argues for a deeper understanding of the notion of will in non-human species.

Further Study

Additional work remains to be done in several areas, but time is money and pygmies are a parsimonious lot who pay little for unscientific monographs. Perhaps if the research dug a little deeper they would reach into their pockets farther.

Their intelligence relative to other pets would be a particularly fruitful area for more analysis. I remain baffled by their unwillingness to respond consistently to simple commands. Like cats, even though they seem to understand certain commands, they seem entirely disinclined to sit, shake or rollover. These commands seem to profoundly bore them; they're inherently good-natured about it and remain bemused, but resolutely aloof.

Copyright © 2007, Lotus Pond Media

Steven C. Grant is the Director, Business Development for Lotus Pond Media and the co-author of two children's books about pygmy goats: Meet the Goat Kids and The Goat Kids Explore the Woods. You can read more stories about the goat kids at http://www.goatkids.net, enjoy family photographs, purchase goat kids memorabilia, and sign up for the Pygmy Talk forum.

Pygmy Goat Auto Mechanics

Pygmy goats love to help, in their own little ways, with work around the homestead. Our little herd: Charlie, Ella, Jack and Sally are no different. As soon as I back out the lawn tractor Ella jumps onto the driver's seat. If I start cleaning out the shed Sally starts gnawing on the pitchfork. If I lay down in the driveway to look at a corroded muffler Jack starts using my back as a playground and Charlie nibbles on my tools.

The muffler finally rusted through on my Infiniti I30 after seven years and 135,000 miles and the goats wanted to get out there and help.

I mentioned three or four times to my family that I needed to crawl underneath and check things out before we involved any garages with "quote/unquote" real mechanics. They had been listening to the steadily increasing rattle of a broken support bracket and the even louder trumpet of a split pipe for three or four weeks so their sense of urgency was building, but I know you have to approach these events with equanimity (which is a fancy way of spelling laziness). I'd even gotten so far as to put the jack stands next to the car in the driveway and found some old jeans to rip into rags as a definitive indication that I would soon reach a point at which I might think about starting.

Okay, I had no way of knowing those jeans had been washed by my daughter with bleach and smooth stones forty times to give them that carefully cultivated "worn out" look. It's not like I wash the car with bleach and smooth stones. 135,000 miles of New York roads, with potholes big enough to hide wheelbarrows, were sufficient to provide a warmly contemporary worn out patina on the car.

So, after the jack stands stood guard for a week, and we used the van to run down and get a new pair of jeans, I guess my wife started to lose faith in the repair process. One rainy afternoon (that reminds me, I was ready to jump on that repair two or three times, but who wants to work in a muddy driveway on a rusted muffler in a pouring rain?) I got a call from my daughter asking if I wanted to spend $384 and just have the garage fix the muffler--that afternoon. She could tell by the tone of my querulous response that she was supposed to call her Mom with this estimate, not me.

The car had passed inspection one month before and now they wanted $384 dollars to wrap some bailing wire and duct tape around a pinhole? I suspect that $500 brake job had something to do with passing inspection. Is it just me, or does every inspection every year on every car end up in a $500 brake job? I'm starting to think this is just state sponsored baksheesh. The inspection is supposed to cost $37 dollars in New York, but somehow it always comes out to $537. As soon as there are $500 dollars worth of repairs then, magically, the inspected car--no matter how much lingering rot and devastation is present--seems to be roadworthy.

I could not bring myself to spend $384 dollars for a repair that I knew in my heart could just as easily cost $38.40 or $3.84. I used to work with a mechanic and, yes Virginia, there is a pinwheel in the back covered with random prices; sits right next to a set of sharpened darts. I vetoed the garage repair on the grounds that any idiot with a hammer and a torch could fix a leaky muffler and I was certainly a big enough idiot to qualify.

Next day I snuck out the front door with tools in hand. I couldn't go out the back door because the goats camp on the porch in our lawn chairs and I wanted to fix the car without any helpful pygmy paws. They have extremely keen senses and if they catch any movement, smell or sound they bound off to join the action.

I threw some cardboard over the gravel driveway, and jacked up the car. I turned on the compressor for the impact wrench and the jig was up with the goats. As soon as they heard the compressor crank up they knew the party was in the driveway. All four came dashing around the corner of the garage to lend a hand.

The goats started eating the cardboard out from under me. Then the goats started fighting over the cardboard because I was laying on most of it and all four of them wanted to eat the three square inches of cardboard that were showing right above my left shoulder. This meant the goats had to fight each other for who got to eat the cardboard. Which meant they had to scramble over my head to get a good running shot at bashing in the other goat's forehead. While Sally and Ella smashed each other's brains in, Jack focused on eating the cardboard.

Once I got positioned under the car, Charlie wanted to lie down next to me. He's so big, once he got settled in for a nap on the driveway, nuzzled right against my side, I couldn't get out from under the car.

Sally started crawling under the car to chew on the pipe between the catalytic converter and the muffler. She could only imagine that if this thing were so important I would spend hours staring at it and banging on it with all manner of implements it might also taste good. Ella was very concerned Sally might be nibbling something tasty Ella couldn't reach, so she started wiggling forward on her knees to join us under the car.

I had to get the goats out from under the car as it was balanced, somewhat precariously, on four 2x6's and two hydraulic jacks left over from a house remodeling project that didn't stay at the top of my list long enough to reach completion. If the whole set up started to tip I needed to roll out of there quickly. However, I knew I'd try to save the goats on the way out and that would probably mean all of us getting squashed under the car together. There are certainly worse things than dying under a car with screaming goats kicking at your head, but there's also a long list of less worse things.

Long story short, the total cost of the repair was $8.97 for a new gasket. A savings of $375.03. Of course, there was $5.00 of gas to get the gasket. Then $175 for the welder bought on sale at Sears, but which I will use many many times for all manner of house, lawn, and garden projects. I'm starting to draw sketches for an elaborate gateway arch over the garden entry that I can now weld together. Sure, welding classes were $227, but that shouldn't count because now I've got a trade that might come in handy if I'm ever traveling on the Siberian highway and need to fix a broken transaxle.

I also used my drill press, my compressor, my die grinder and an impact wrench (not cheap, but there's 450 foot-lbs of torque in that beast). The same principle applies; these are capital investments I'll be able to amortize over the next twenty years of repairs, and the goats are going to have so much fun helping me.

Copyright 2007, Lotus Pond Media

Steven C. Grant is the Director, Business Development for Lotus Pond Media and the co-author of two children's books about pygmy goats: Meet the Goat Kids and The Goat Kids Explore the Woods. You can read more stories about the goat kids at http://www.goatkids.net, enjoy family photographs, purchase goat kids memorabilia, and sign up for the Pygmy Talk forum.

Basics of Raising Goats

What do you need to start raising goats? Here are the basics of raising goats.

Ample pasture, preferably 1-2 acres per goat is recommended for grazing. Some people like to supplement with a bit of special goat grain available at your local feed store. A good quality hay should be on hand during the winter, and to supplement feeding during dry summer months.

Fresh water is essential for a healthy goat. A good way to provide water is simply a bucket, refilled each day; or a trough, or even an automatic water station. An automatic water station is great if you are worried about dirty water and constant supply.

Housing is the next essential. Again, this is according to personal preference and budget. A good goat house for raising goats can be as simple as a lean-to shelter or a large barn with feed and hay rooms and stalls.

Mineral and or salt lick blocks are recommended by many goat owners for overall health. Look for the specialty recipes for goats. When placing a mineral or salt block, try to place it in the goat shelter and on a block of wood or something similar so that it will stay dry. You don't want your salt dissolving into the ground!

Do not skimp on fencing! Although being the most expensive aspect of raising goats, you will want it to last as long as possible and still be effective. The recommended fencing is 4' high, red-top woven wire with 12" spacing. When installing, be sure to stretch the bottom wire to run directly in contact with the ground for the most effective barrier.

With the right equipment and care, raising goats can and should be a pleasure for you, your friends and of course, the goats, for many years.

The http://www.raising-goats.blogspot.com blog is a site dedicated to raising goats and goat care run by Andrew Rocuant and his goat farm located in the beautiful Missouri Ozarks. http://raising-goats.blogspot.com

4 Chicken Coop Plans for Bantams

Raising chickens has become a high demanding job amongst farmers. You may not think that keeping chickens, feeding them, breeding them and using their eggs for food would be practiced regularly as it was in the past. Sure, times have changed and there are now many chicken raising factories that have automated egg hatcheries and such, but the fundamental procedures of raising chickens grows more and more each year as the world's population continues to grow. Hence it is vital for a chicken raising farmer to understand these concepts and learn how to build a chicken coop.

For many of us who have a backyard chicken flock, one of the key issues we come across is finding some really good chicken coop plans for building chicken coops. There are hundreds of different breeds of chickens and as any experienced chicken farmer will tell you, it is not a good idea to keep certain types of chickens together in the same chicken coop.

The bantam chickens are the ones that do not grow any larger than one fifth to one quarter of the size of a standard chicken breed. They are known as the miniature classes of chickens and they are extremely cute and fun to watch.

While there aren't many chicken coop plans designed especially for bantam chickens, I have found through my experience raising chickens that bantams and standard chickens differ in other ways besides their size. Therefore I have put together some chicken coop plans tips that will help you build a chicken coop for these miniature fowls.

#1:

Build a chicken coop that is tall and has multiple long and high perches. Unlike large standard chickens which tend to hang around at the bottom of the coop due to their excessive weight, small bantams can easily jump up to the highest perches, giving your chicken coop plenty of space to keep more chickens. Build plenty of perches, nests and feeders so that the bantams can jump around from perch to perch and eat from any part of the coop.

#2:

Bantam chickens have tendencies to jump really high and some can almost fly across an entire field. Therefore you want to make sure that if your chicken coop has an attached chicken pen or chicken run, it is covered with a high net or its surroundings have really high fences. The last thing you want is for your bantam chicken to fly over your fence because they are not smart enough to jump back across.

#3:

Bantams can be quite feisty. As cute as they are, bantam roosters can become quite aggressive when their territory is threatened. You may want to separate the chicken coop into smaller compartments with chicken wire. Keep one rooster per every three hens.

#4:

Be aware of injured bantams. For some strange reason, I have had many of my bantam chickens get eaten alive by the other bantams. This may sound absurd but it is true. Chickens tend to peck at each other at times and if they draw blood, the other chickens will begin pecking at the blood and eventually killing off the innocent chicken. This is why you should remove any chicken that you notice has been pecked or injured and keep it in its own cage for a week until it heals.

By following the chicken coop plans above you should have an easier time raising bantam chickens in your backyard. Bantams can be quite adorable but they require a lot of maintenance and care if you truly want to get the best out of your chicken flock.

Are you confident enough yet to build your own chicken coop? Many people have had success building their own coop and saved a lot of money in doing so. These are only just a few tips to help you on your chicken raising endeavors. For detailed chicken coop plan and instructions you should try these
advanced chicken coop plans